Life inside the densest place on earth: Remembering Kowloon Walled City
(CNN)
-- Picture a colossal empire of little houses stacked on top of each
other. Visualize them connected by staircases snaking under dangling
wires, through corridors so dark even police were rumored to be afraid
of them.
Now picture 33,000 people living there, within the space of
one city block. That was Kowloon Walled City, once considered the
densest settlement on earth.
"A huge monstrosity of buildings"
Before
it was demolished twenty years ago,
photographer Greg Girard spent
years with collaborator Ian Lambot documenting this unique Hong Kong
phenomenon, and remembers being amazed when he first saw it.
"It was a huge monstrosity of buildings," recalls Girard. "It didn't look like anything else."
After
all, the Walled City was a kind of historical accident. A former Qing
dynasty fortress, it never fully came under the regulation of the
British colonial government in Hong Kong. As a result, its residents
were free to build their dwellings as they wished, ignoring safety
codes.
"Quite often houses were built by building onto the next
building, punching out walls to use their staircases," said Girard. "A
lot of them didn't have access to air or open space, because they were
enclosed in the center of the structure."
Deep within the building's darkness, a variety of small businesses flourished.
"The
places that stuck out were the meat factories," says Girard. "There
were pig carcasses laying splayed out on the floor; they'd burn the hair
off with a blowtorch, it was all pretty open and of course there were
no health laws governing the place."
But despite the City's wild appearance, the photographer found that the people inside lived just like people anywhere else.
"People
were doing very ordinary things," he says. "It's just that all these
ordinary things were happening in an extraordinary place."
An ingenious community
The
complexity of the Walled City also fascinated local architect Aaron
Tan, now the director of Hong Kong firm Research Architecture Design. A
graduate student then, he wrote his thesis on the Walled City as it was
being torn down.
"I was fascinated -- it was like a piece of
machinery that worked very well. The demolition was like taking the
machine apart -- the first time you could see what was inside.
"It
was a really humbling process for me as a designer -- when we met this
Walled City, we started to see that people could be more intelligent
than us, the designers -- that they could think of ways to solve
problems that are outside the traditional academic world."
Tan was
especially impressed by Kowloon Walled City's water system. To support
its dense population, residents dug extra wells and built thousands of
pipes that twisted through the building. But since pumping water to the
City's roof tanks required plenty of power, the people would take turns
conserving electricity so that water could be shared successfully.
"It revealed the community inside -- that no matter the challenges, they would find some intelligent way to solve it," says Tan.
Despite
the ingenuity of the Walled City, by 1994 it was completely torn down
by the city government, which was eager to replace the chaotic and
unregulated community with a public park.
"Seeing the Walled City
fall into disuse was sort of melancholic," says Girard. "Every city
realizes too late to start caring about their architectural heritage --
it's a mistake that gets repeated everywhere. By the time you start
caring about it, it's too late to save it."
Today, visitors to the
site of the old Walled City will find a placid garden with swaying trees
and cloudy ponds. In the park there is a small museum in honor of
Kowloon Walled City. But when you look to the sky and imagine the
colossus of Hong Kong life that once stood, it's easy to see that
something significant has been lost.
The City is not dead
Even
today, the City's legacy lives on. A walled neighborhood called the
Narrows in the 2005 film "Batman Begins" was based on Kowloon Walled
City. The City is even a level in the video game "Call of Duty: Black
Ops."
"You don't want to romanticize a slum, you know. Because it was
that. But it was much more than that. The Walled City was a kind of
architectural touchstone in terms of what a city can be -- unplanned,
self-generated, unregulated. It was vital and vibrant and every part of
it was being used."
It is believe the spirit of the Walled City continues to pulse through the heart of Hong Kong itself.
"Go
to The Peak and look down upon this amazing collection of buildings
coming together -- it's almost like a blown up version of the Walled
City, right? Each building is related to the next building. New programs
evolve because of the connections."
This organic chaos, he says, has been an inspiration for his own work.
"Many
architects and urban planners like control," he says. "But people like
to get lost in the city. In my design process, I always consciously try
to allow accidents, to allow others to participate, to surprise me."
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